First Day in BsAs

Wow! First of all, it took me forever to be able to post this blog today. For some reason I am only able to access blogger in Spanish, and even then, it was not registering my l0g-on information and didn't let me log on, until now, 12:15 a.m., June 2.

I arrived without a hitch - flying business class on such a long trip is definitely mandatory -forget the food (filet mignon and wine), the ability to put my feet up and stretch out to an almost horizontal position and actually get some sleep was well worth the little extra I had to pay to buy enough miles to upgrade.

Made it to my apartment with no problem and the place is very cute - small and cozy, but definitely better than a hotel room.

Finally, after unpacking and playing with my computer (in frustration) trying to get it to work properly, I called Larry. He told me to meet him at an ice cream shop which sounded like it was about 5 blocks away. It turned out to be further and I ended up in a coffee shop a block away from where we were supposed to meet. He was wondering where I was and I was wondering where he was. I came back here and called him. Fortunately, he got his cell phone working and called me, and eventually he came here. But we seemed destined to miss each other again. He buzzed and I thought I had to go down to meet him, but I pressed a button on the intercom just to see what it did, thinking he would still be waiting downstairs. I went down to find him not there. So I came back in and here he was waiting outside my door!

Finally, my tour began. Larry showed me lots of sights, but really what I got a feel for was why Argentines, have the reputation they do. We walked by a church in Recoleta, the swanky area where Larry is staying (reminded me of the Upper West Side of NYC), and a wedding was just about to begin. The bride and her father stood outside the doors while guests still arrived (late) and lined up behind her - the guests dressed in formal wear, furs and jewels, everyone looking fab. The bride stood there for the longest time until finally the doors opened to this magnificent old church (built in like 1752 or something like that) with a brilliant golden alter and a choir singing pomp and circumstance. I actually got teary eyed, it was so moving, so theatrical, and according to Larry, so Argentine.

We went to the Plaza de Mayo, where the mothers of the disappeared still convene every Thursday to protest the disappearance of their loved ones, and a protest was going on, lines of police behind a barracade seeming to protect the Casa Rosada (Pink House) where Evita appeared to the crowds and sang, "Don't Cry for me Argentina" (well maybe she didn't do that in real life), grand old neocolonial buildings lined boulevard buzzing with traffic, we rode the oldest subway in South America (I think Larry said it was the 3rd oldest in the world) and finally went back to Larry's neighborhood to eat empanadas, which his doorman said are the best in South America - they were pretty tasty, those with a delicious bottle of wine and a salad set us both back a whopping $8 with tax and tip.

What really strikes me is the spirit of the people. Everyone is laughing, and they look intently at one another while they speak, hands flailing in the air as they gaze intently into one another's eyes. It doesn't matter who is talking, two male or two female friends, lovers, family members, they all look at one another while they are speaking, and seem so inextricably connected.

The other thing that struck me was the prevalance of older men everywhere we went. I don't know why I don't notice them in the states. I guess they are usually with their wives, children, grandchildren, or driving around looking for parking. But here, older guys hang out with each other and are involved in what seem like deep philosophical discussions. This is where I want to get old. I look at them and picture them dancing tango with ease. I look at them and wonder what stories they have to tell.

It's been a great first day. Great food, great sights, great people and spirit. The weather is perfect, the city is very walkable, the wine is cheap and amazingly good, and the food is also cheap and amazingly good. I think I will definitely be back, but for the next two months, I think I have a lot in store for me.