I had my second tango lesson today. I am (hopefully) at the tail end of this cold or whatever it is I have. My throat was still sore this morning and I felt sort of out of it, but I went to my lesson anyway. I've posted a picture of Marcelo's studio. The picture really can't describe the full experience. It's a combination of the music, the view out the window of these grand old apartment buildings that are sorely in need of renovation (with rusty shutters covering the windows), the room, and of course, the dancing.
Today's lesson was similar to yesterday's. We started again with walking, which makes me feel like I am totally incompetent. You can't believe how difficult it is to walk with the intention of putting your leg out straight in front of you, toes pointed out, leg first and body following after, all keeping your balance. It's even harder to do backwards. Fortunately, these walking exercises seem to be warm-up exercises. We did a little walking, a little backwards walking, some forward and some back ochos, and then he grabbed my arms, not yet a full tango embrace, and we worked on the basic step a little. This is so good for me. Even though it is really fun to dance and feel like I'm in some Jane Austin romance, it's more important that I really get the fundamentals, and that is what he is focusing on without it being about only the fundamentals. The classes are a great mix of attention to form, posture, etc., but also with dancing and having fun.
Again Marcelo encouraged me to go to the milonga next Wednesday. He said he'd go with me and dance with me to show the guys that I could dance and then he'd leave me alone. It seems like such a big step. I think maybe after another week of lessons, I might be ready for it. He's also encouraging me to come to his class on Fridays at 6. I highly recommend him. If anyone is coming to Buenos Aires and looking for a good tango teacher, his e-mail is tangosur@argentina.com. He also does massage.
I like that his studio is in a part of town I don't know very well. I went to the Congresso on my first day whirlwind tour of the city with Larry, but it was a quick visit. We had gone to Plaza de Mayo and then took the subte to el Congresso, which was really beautiful at night. It's a very different feel from where I live and also from the other neighborhoods I frequent. It feels more like old Buenos Aires and is more in need of repair than the Recoleta and my neighborhood, Retiro.
I was thinking about time today. I was reading something before I left San Francisco, or listening to something, I can't remember. I believe it might have been Ken Wilber. And he was talking about at the level of pure consciousness, time does not exist. Past and present and to a certain extent, future, all exist at the same time. Kind of a mind-blowing concept.
Today on my way to school, after my tango lesson in this building that time forgot, a guy rode by me on a bicycle that seemed like he was out of a film from the 1940's. I have this feeling here that all time, past, present and future is happening simultaneously. It's hard to explain. But going to these old cafes where tangueros hung out and wrote music, hearing old tango music from the 1930s and 1940s, seeing people who look like they are still living in a past time, buildings that represent a faded past glory, all alongside modern fashions, new modern steel and glass buildings, gleaming shopping centers, etc. It is as if here the old equally coexists with the new. It's not something I'm aware of in the States. I think because there is so much that is old here, and it is still very much valued, or at least has never been replaced, it seems like several time periods are existing in the same moment. It's kind of a trip.
I found a new place to eat lunch. The place where we went to have mate the other day is a few blocks from school. I went yesterday and had a pretty decent lunch - chicken with potatoes in some sort of cream sauce. I went again today and the waiter recognized me and came up to my table and recommended one of today's specials - ribs baked in the oven with french fries. I went with it, even though I really need to get away from this meat and potatoes diet.
It's a really nice neighborhood place that has that mix of old and new that I love here. The waiters are so much friendlier than at the other place I was going for lunch, las Ciencias. Recently I was there with Anna and one of the waiters cracked a smile. It was something worthy of a front page headline. Those guys really took their job seriously. But at my new favorite place for lunch, Punta Cuore, the waiters seem to feel more at ease interacting with the customers.
I observed a couple at the next table who had the same thing I had for lunch plus a bottle of wine. Their tab was 45 pesos, which is about 15 dollars! Can you imagine lunch for two plus wine for 15 dollars!
Last night Hernan told me it is very difficult for Argentines to pay international prices. For example, his airfare to go to Quebec, which would be about $1,000 U.S., is 3,000 pesos. I think for Argentines, the value of the peso in terms of what it buys is still equivalent to what it was when it was pegged to the dollar. So for us, the prices are 1/3 cheaper - 45 pesos is 15 dollars, but for them 45 pesos is 45 pesos - I don't think that lunch was a bargain for that couple.
Tonight we're having dinner at the restaurant across from Larry's - El San Juanino, to say good-by to Mike and Anna who are leaving this weekend. Tomorrow I have my final exam, and if I pass will go to level 7. I don't know if I'll have classmates or will be in a class alone. I know I'll miss my classmates Mike and Anna, both of whom made me laugh a lot and were fun to have in class.
Time for a siesta.
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