The fun thing about having people visit for me is that I get to go to all of my favorite places that I normally would not go to. This happens when friends visit me in San Francisco too. I'm glad Diane decided to visit me at the end of my stay here as it is giving me an opportunity to make one last visit to some of my favorite BsAs spots, and I'm even seeing some new places.
Today we met halfway between our apartments and took a taxi to Gurrachaga and Cordoba. There is a shoestore on Gurrachaga that Lorena said I might like, and Diane wanted to go to the Prune outlet on Gurrachaga, but on the other side of Cordoba. I figured we could do both and then I'd show her around the Palermos.
We walked about 4-5 blocks down Gurrachaga into a neighborhood called Villa Crespo. Diane met an Argentine woman on the plane on her flight down and admired her boots. The woman told her they were Prune. She then showed Diane her wallet and change purse, which were also Prune. So Diane has had Prune on her mind since she got here. The other day I sent her to Abasto on her own, where there is a Prune shop, but this was a Prune outlet!
We went inside and it was a feeding frenzy of women going crazy over bags, wallets, jackets, belts. One man stood in the midst of it all looking like I felt. I found a wallet for myself, one for a gift and a bag, and told Diane I'd meet her outside.
Unfortunately, Diane was swallowed up into the bowels of the Prune Outlet and I thought I'd never see her again. She emerged nearly an hour later with two large bags on her arms. I'd say Prune was a big hit with Diane!
From there we walked down Gurrachaga into Palermo Soho to 28 Sport, the shoe store Lorena recommended. The shoes were bowling style, and they were nice but I felt like I'd have to wear bowling shirts and grow one of those little furry things under the lip that are not quite a goatee. I didn't get shoes.
We walked through Palermo Soho a bit, onto Honduras and around Plaza Serrano until we got to Nicaragua. We turned to head into Palermo Hollywood, but were stopped by a large wall that would not allow us to cross. It was kind of like the Berlin wall. So we hopped in a taxi, which was nicely air-conditioned, and the driver took us to Nicaragua and Arevalo, to a cafe I ate at with Hernan called Oui Oui.
I asked the driver why this section of Palermo was called "Hollywood". He was a very nice guy and in loud, clear Spanish told me he had two theories. One was that there are several TV stations there, and the other is that there are many actors and film people who live in that section of Palermo. He said it has only been 5 or 6 years that it has been known as Palermo Hollywood. Before that it was just Palermo.
Oui Oui was crowded, but we got a table. We had three salads. Diane had a salad with avocado, sun dried tomatoes, a fried egg on a piece of bread and goat cheese. I had a salad with pears, beets, some melted cheese and it tasted like there were fried onions in the dressing. And we shared a goat cheese provoleta, which came on a bed of greens. It was all very yummy. We also had a small pitcher of wine. We then went for the deserts, which looked and smelled really tempting. Diane had a crepe with nutella and I had a flourless chocolate cake with cream. We both had coffee.
It was a feast. And it was nice to get away from the milanesa, steak and fries typical menus.
Oui Oui is a very cute little cafe, with lots of chalkboards with hand written menus, dried flowers hanging on the walls, and lots of kitsch.
From there, we taxid over to Plaza Armenia in Palermo Viejo, where Diane made a few purchases, but by now the heat had become oppressive. The sky was darkening like it was going to pour any minute, and a torrential shower would have been a welcome relief from the heat. There wasn't a lot going on at Plaza Armenia so we headed back to Plaza Serrano and then caught a taxi home.
I took a nap and Diane laid all of her purchases from Prune on her bed and rolled around naked on them. No, I am just kidding about that. But she did say she didn't sleep because she was looking at her wallets.
A little after 6, Diane came here and we headed to Yin Yang Pie to make an appointment for her to get a manicure on Monday. We then walked over to the Recoleta Fair.
This is the third or fourth time I've been to the Recoleta Fair, and you'd think I'd be tired of it by now, but each time I go I see different things and I develop a new appreciation for it. Today I was struck by all of the people who are making things, jewelry, clothes, paintings, art, handicrafts, mates, whatever, and selling them. Diane bought a pair of shoes from a guy who said he makes them in his home with his wife and son and learned from his father. I bought a beautiful little copper plate with enamel painting from a woman who said she has been selling them there for 35 years. She said when she started she told her mother she would just do it for a few years, but it has been 35! She was very proud of her work and the plates were really lovely little pieces of art. I regret not going there more. I think it is interesting just to walk around and talk to people there and hang out.
After that, we headed over to El Sanjuanino, one of my favorite little local restaurants. The food is not really anything special, but it is good, hearty and reasonably priced. What I love about the place is the atmosphere. It feels very warm and homey, the waiters are friendly and the place is always filled with a mix of locals and tourists. Today a few older couples were wishing one of the waiters a happy birthday. You could tell they eat there a lot.
From El Sanjuanino, we walked down to Patio Bullrich because we needed Freddo to get the taste of steak out of our mouths. Patio Bullrich is a very luxurious shopping center with shops such as Kenzo, Cristian Lacroix and Prune! It used to be a livestock trading market, but is a beautiful structure and was all shiny and sparkly for the holidays. We walked around a bit and then went to Freddo for a little ice cream. I got mora, which I think is black currant, and passion fruit. Diane got bitter chocolate with raspberry. I loved the mora, but I think Volta's passion fruit is better.
From there, we headed up Avenida Alvear and Diane said she had to pee and wanted to use the bathroom in the Alvear Palace Hotel. But really, she wanted to steal some of the very thick paper towels they have in the bathroom. There was a big hullabaloo going on in the ballroom, so I waited in the lobby while Diane made her way through the crowds to the restroom to steal paper towels. It turned out there was a wedding and they thought she was a guest, so she had a glass of champagne on the way! Now, that is super cheto!
We zig zagged our way home through the Recoleta, making a stop at the Sirian-Lebanese Club. I wanted to go inside to see the restaurant and the buffet that I only know from delivery. The people there were very nice and allowed us to go up into this grand old house to check out the restaurant. The restaurant itself was almost diner like in its informality, people were wearing shorts and it all looked very relaxed. The food looked great, and the building was absolutely gorgeous. As we were leaving, I asked the woman who greeted us if it had been a house. She said yes, one family used to live there. I said it was incredible, and she said something like, "yes, it's a shame how the poor used to live" - I think she was being ironic!
It was a full, but fun day. My feet are killing me, of course, but I think I can take one more day of trekking around if I am careful to take breaks and not walk too much (it is so hard not to walk in this city - it's the only way to really see it).
Tomorrow our plan is to go to the Feria de Mataderos early, take showers and naps (or roll around naked on the bed with our purchases) and then head to San Telmo.
Monday I have another massage, and a facial at Aqua Vita, and Diane's sister and another friend, Bozena both arrive. Monday evening we will go out for drinks and dinner and then on Tuesday we may leave the city to visit Tigre, getting home in time for me to finish packing and head to the airport!
My last few days in Buenos Aires are turning out to be full, and very satisfying, if not exhausting. I'll be leaving with some fond memories and a desire to return for just a little bit more (but not missing the heat).
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