Adventures of a temporary ex-pat living, studying, learning, dancing and making mistakes in Buenos Aires.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Puerto Madero
Today was a good day.
I started off slow since the clock on my computer for some reason sprung back an hour. I was sitting here, checking e-mail, reading the Huffington Post, just wasting time and when I went into the kitchen, I was surprised at what time it was. It was already 11:00.
I had plans today to meet a new conversation partner. I thought we were going to meet early, but there was no reason to think that since we had not arranged a time. But I got my butt in gear and went to the gym and had a good workout. I came home called Juan Carlos, my new partner. He told me he had to meet a friend around 2 and would call me again around 4:30. I had rushed to make sure I was home from the gym so I could contact him, so I was a little perturbed, but not greatly, as this gave me a little more time to relax, since I was tired after the gym. But I was hungry, so I went to the Disco to pick up some goods, ate lunch and then took a short nap. My friend Diane skyped me and while we were talking, Juan Carlos called me. He said we could meet at 7.
Again, I was a little miffed because I thought we were going to meet earlier. But it turned out to be a really wise decision on his part.
At about 6 I decided I was going to walk to Plaza de Mayo, where we were going to meet, rather than take the subte, because it was a beautiful evening. I also wanted to walk past my old building further down on Arenales, where I stayed last year.
It was kind of warm, but nice to walk, and the city seemed deserted. I really enjoyed the walk.
When I got to my old block I was amazed to see how the trees were filled with leaves and cast a green canopy over the street. It was very lush and smelled fresh. I saw the little old man who lived in my old building and sometimes rode the elevator with me. He always smelled very strongly of urine and eventually I started trying to avoid him. He was wearing a jacket, even though it was probably in the 80's. It was very warm.
I walked down Florida Street, a major shopping and pedestrian walkway that runs from Plaza San Martin to Plaza de Mayo. It's always a good place for people watching. It was filled with tons of Brazilians and others - tourists and locals. It seems to be the place to go, especially for tourists since there are many hotels in the area. There are also vendors lined up in the middle of the walkway, tango dancers, musicians and human statues. It has kind of a carnival atmosphere. I was walking at a brisk pace though, or at least trying to, and that is not the thing to attempt on Florida Street. Florida Street is meant for a stroll. There was a lot going on with the crowds, and the heat, and me zig-zagging back and forth to try maneuver myself through the obstacles. I found myself at Plaza de Mayo a little early. I went to Burger King and got a grapefruit soda and sat and relaxed for a few minutes before going over to meet JC (Juan Carlos).
Plaza de Mayo is a really special place for me. It's kind of dumpy from the thousands of pigeons that flock there and are fed by tourists, and the graffiti that covers the buildings around the plaza, and the fact that people only go there to protest and never to just hang out, but I like that it exists. It's kind of like the corner of 18th and Castro in San Francisco. When something happens that affects the gay community, whether it is another homophobic piece of legislation, another hate crime, or even something positive (like the death of Jesse Helms), people know that they can go to 18th and Castro, or Harvey Milk Plaza and find a group of people assembling to do someting.
Plaza de Mayo is where all of the protests in the city end up and it is where the mothers of the disappeared, and the grandmothers, met every Thursday during the dictatorship for their silent proetests and still meet today.
The plaza also sits in the middle of a collection of grandiose buildings of historic, religious, political or economic significance.
JC and I met up and we walked to Puerto Madero, a posh new part of Buenos Aires that is built on the old docks. There is a canal that runs through Puerto Madero and the canal is lined on one side with old warehouse buildings some with restaurants and shops, and on the other side, new shiny, glass and steel buildings, restaurants, hotels, etc.
The walkway (JC called it a boardwalk, but it wasn't a boardwalk really) was crowded with all types of people, while others sat outside at the posh restaurants and cafes. At one point we passed through a huge crowd listening to two opera singers at a restaurant who were singing outside. We arrived just as the singers hit the peak part of the song and the crowd started to applaud. I felt like they were applauding us for some reason, because they started just as we got there and continued as we weaved our way through the crowd, kind of like Congres does for the president when he arrives to give his State of the Union address.
From the canal, we walked back to a street that ran along the outer edges of the ecological reserve. We walked through new construction, deluxe high rises (I found the neighborhood I want to retire in if I retire in Buenos Aires!) until we got to the ecological reserve. The street was lined with cheap outdoor parillas and people hanging out enjoying the evening. Everywhere we went, we came across new sights, sounds and smells. I really felt like I was in a different city.
Finally, we sat outside at a Mexican restaurant and had a drink and some snacks - tacos, quesadillas, guacamole, etc.
JC is a really nice guy. He's from Paraguay but his father is Argentine, so he is an Argentine citizen too. He lived for 10 years in Florida and his English is perfect. We only spoke English simply because I was enjoying talking to him. The next time we meet, I'll ask if we can do only Spanish.
There is so much more I could write about today but I've written quite a bit. I had a good time and am looking forward to getting together with JC again to practice Spanish and also just to hang out. He doesn't know many people here and is bored at home. I think both of us want someone to be able to do things with.
Ok, it's almost midnight and I have an acupuncture appointment tomorrow at 9. I've been having problems with clocks and time and stuff like that, so I don't want to take any chances.
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