Sunday, October 12, 2008

Random Ramblings



It rained this morning and then the sun came out. I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to take a walk, being a long weekend and figuring that people had already made rainy day plans.

The streets were pretty empty as I made my way to the Recoleta Fair, but unfortunately, the fair was also pretty empty of vendors. Some were beginning to set up, but it looked like most had given up with the rain earlier and were not going to show up.

I decided to take a walk to Palermo Chico, a very ritzy, tranquil little neighborhood not too far from the Recoleta. It is an area where some rich Buenos Aires families had large homes built, but then after the 1929 stock market crash found it impossible to maintain them - so many were sold off as embassies. One very large, lavish home is the Museum of Decorative Arts.

I found a quiet little tree-shaded plaza and sat down to take a rest in the shade as it had gotten warm. I looked up at the huge mansion across the street from where I was sitting and saw this old 70's era car. When I looked closer, I could see the word "Falcon" on the side. Was this one of the notorious green Ford Falcons that was used during the dictatorship by the paramilitary forces who rounded up people to be tortured and disappeared? If so, what was it doing in this very exclusive neighborhood of Buenos Aires? Who was it that lived behind the well-guarded walls of that giagantic home?

I started thinking that the dictatorship was a kind of class warfare as it was waged on the poor, middle classes and intellectuals who all believed in social justice and a more equitable distribution of the wealth. This was called communism at the time and was seen as a threat to the survival of the way of life for the elite, who the military defend.

Then I started thinking about how the Bush/Cheyney coup of 2000 has resulted in much the same kind of class warfare as what took place here. There have not been massive roundups of dissidents, mostly because there has not been much dissidence. But still, what Bush/Cheyney and company have done is to set themselves up for a pretty comfortable retirement while the rest of us wonder if we'll be able to afford aspirin for the headaches coming out way. This Wall Street bailout seems to be the final looting before they are booted out of Washington.

As I walked around this quiet, tree-lined neighborhood with remnants of past economic collapse now serving as embassies, I began to wonder what the purpose of an embassy was. Here are people who travel in elite circles, live in deluxe accommodations and are in some way supposed to represent the country that they hail from. As a US citizen I was not even allowed to take a photo of the US Embassy, how is it that the man inside that house could in any way represent me? No, Ambassadors represent the elites of their countries and are sent to other countries to ensure that trading and dealings between those elites run smoothly - all over cocktails and lavish dinners.

It is a corrupt system and it seems like a good thing that it is all falling apart, though the ones who will be hurt the most will be the ones in the middle. Poor people know how to surive already on very little. Their lives are difficult and while they might become more difficult, they will be able to continue to get by. But the middle class does not know what it is like to be dirt poor, and many, unfortunately, are going to find this to be their new reality. As I watched on CNN about another large factory closing in Ohio (a cookie company), and workers showing up to find out about this with no notice given, I was reminded of what happened here in Argentina. People took to the streets, they banged pots and made noise, and eventually took over the factories and began to run them themselves.

Why are Americans so accepting of these closings as the final word? Why are they not being more militant and demanding that their jobs stay in their communities? It seems that Argentine anger and action is a much better solution than the American tears and resignation.

Argentina will begin charging $130 for visas for Americans beginning in January. This is a reciprocal fee and is based on the fact that Argentines have to pay $135 for an American visa (I think Brits, Australians and some other nationalities will also have to pay this).

Some expats here are whining about this saying it will make life more difficult for them. Welcome to Argentina! I feel guilty buying a bottle of water at school because I know most of my classmates can not afford that luxury. It is nearly impossible for an Argentine to get an American visa even if they have the money to pay for one. It is only fair that this visa that is so easy for us to get and so easy to renew, should cost something. Yeah it is inconvenient, but it hardly offsets the inequality in the system which allows us to travel so freely around the world and restricts people from other countries from entering our country even for a short visit.

When I moved to San Francisco from Japan a former student in Japan wanted to visit his girlfriend who was studying in SF. He applied for a visa and was denied! They said he was an overstay risk because his girlfriend was in San Francisco and not Japan.

I think Argentines should charge Americans the equivalent of what the $135 we charge them would be based on their annual income. I'm sure it is more of an inconvenience for them than it is for most Americans who are able to travel here.

And finally, I am thinking about trying a different neighborhood next year when I return. The Recoleta is nice but it is pretty busy. Palermo Hollywood, where I was with Hernan yesterday was very nice and quiet and had interesting local places to hang out. I also liked the apartment, which had a balcony and a terrace. Of course,, moving further out is more inconvenient and would mean I'd have to take the subte or collectivos more, adding more hassle and perhaps offsetting any tranquility I might get from my more residential surroundings. Anyway, I am looking online now for apartments and hope to check out some neighborhoods while I am here that I might try for next time.

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